Portuguese Coastal Way - Stage 4 - Walking & Travel Guide

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The fourth stage of the Portuguese Coastal Way, from Esposende to Viana do Castelo: ocean vistas give way to eucalyptus forests and charming small villages
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#Day4

Esposende – Viana do Castelo 25km

[av_font_icon icon=’uea4f’ font=’fontello’ style=” caption=” link=” linktarget=” size=’30px’ position=’left’ color=” admin_preview_bg=”][/av_font_icon] Go to Stage 3

Our alarms go off at 6:45. There's a lovely kettle in the room, and we can't resist lingering a while longer under the covers. Outside, the first light of dawn paints streaks across the grey clouds in the sky. Fortunately, no rain is forecast, though as we know, the weather can always surprise us.

A hearty breakfast and we're off! A long, wide cycle and pedestrian path guides us along the river mouth and then along the ocean. Yet the sea view soon fades, replaced by residential neighbourhoods and small eucalyptus groves. The Portuguese Coastal Way doesn't follow the ocean on this stage but turns inland, tracing a trail parallel to the coast but several kilometres away.

For the first time since we started, we encounter a few gentle undulations, which actually allow us to vary our pace and give our muscles and tendons some relief from the constant strain. Few cafés along the route! Fortunately, we'd bought a chocolate bar the day before, which helped us manage our hunger.

Positive note: abundant yellow arrows and signposting throughout the route. You'll also find information panels giving more detailed guidance on which way to go. Virtually impossible to get lost!

Negative note: plenty of asphalt, cobblestones, and paving—precious few actual trail sections—which takes its toll on our feet, forced to walk on hard and sometimes rough surfaces.

Along the way, we meet a cheerful and large group of Spanish pilgrims from Santiago de Compostela. We naturally strike up a conversation—we haven't encountered other pilgrims on the road—and they explain that every weekend they resume the journey from where they left off the previous week. The Spanish are fantastic, genuinely charming, and we happily share a few kilometres together. In reality, we can only keep up for a couple of kilometres; they're truly fast, and we lose sight of them within minutes. But we manage to extract a few secrets for properly preparing Caldo Verde! We'll see if the recipe works once we're back home.

We finally reach Viana do Castelo, a city rich in history and things to see. But we'll save that for tomorrow! For now, we face a difficult decision: where should we eat tonight?

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Deborah Torreggiani

Hi, I'm Deborah Torreggiani, Travel Blogger, Editor and Co-Founder of Apiediperilmondo.com. Our mission is to bring together all the information you need about walking journeys, drawing from our personal experiences and expertise. I create clear, information-rich articles to help you find everything you're looking for.

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