San Salvador Way – Stage 3 – Travel Blog

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We set off from Poladura de la Tercia at seven in the morning. Dawn has just broken, but the sky, covered by threatening clouds, shows no sign of clearing. The forecast predicts rain for the afternoon, and the clouds chasing us are proof that the threat is very real.

The trail starts immediately uphill. Energy bars and half a chocolate bar, purchased two days earlier, allow us, given the absence of a café, to have a decent breakfast and tackle another challenging stage with proper energy reserves.

Over 340 m of elevation gain, the scenery becomes more beautiful with every step! Before our eyes, the green of the grass intensifies, and the rocks take on increasingly strange forms.

Just a few hundred metres further and the village disappears behind a rocky outcrop. We find ourselves completely enveloped by nature, immersed in its wonders, in the most intimate and authentic heart of its mountains. We turn back to admire the panorama and a ray of sunlight filters through the mist, illuminating a corner of the valley. With smiles on our faces, we tackle the climb to the Cruz de San Salvador at 1452m elevation. The view is enchanting, but as soon as we turn the corner we notice another significant stretch of climbing ahead. Fortunately, the path is manageable, well-marked, and not particularly difficult.

Once at the summit, the spectacle rewards every effort!! We stand at Canto La Tusa, at the highest point of the Camino de San Salvador, at 1570m elevation. We pause for a few moments in contemplation, and in the silence we celebrate the magic and beauty of this wonderful place. That sense of fullness and well-being reminds us of the countless people who today are still unable to appreciate and protect the world they live in, to benefit from its peace, its harmony, and to understand the profound symbiosis that unites them.

From Canto La Tusa to Pajares

We resume our pace and after a long series of ups and downs we arrive at Pajares.

The descent turns out to be quite demanding on the knees at times and crosses some fields with free-roaming cattle and sheep, usually watched over by a shepherd dog. Its loud barking can be frightening, but it will be enough to pass at a safe distance to ease its aggression.

At Puerto Pajares a gate marks the boundary between Castilla y León and Asturias. We spot the first milestone.

A path through the woods leads to a fork in the road: Pajares on one side and San Miguel on the other. If you don't need to stop at Pajares, it's better to take the San Miguel route to save a few kilometres. Remember, though, that you won't find a café until Campomanes.

We therefore head to Pajares. Many of our fellow pilgrims stop there for the night, but we just want to grab some food and continue on to Bendueños. We arrive to find the café is closed. Panic sets in.

We go to the albergue hoping to find someone and Marisa, the very kind hospitalera, calls the café owner asking her to make us a couple of sandwiches. Five minutes later the café is open, our sandwiches are ready, and all the village locals have poured in. We say goodbye to most of our fellow pilgrims here, except for Gregorio the Catalan, who like an arrow will already be at his destination.

From Pajares to the Sanctuary and Albergue of Bendueños

Rested—very much so (the descent was truly exhausting)—we resume our journey. The trails, full of mud and slippery stones, don't help our pace, which slows down and becomes increasingly difficult. It also begins to rain and we walk for a couple of hours with completely wet shoes and feet.

Finally, at half past five, we reach Herías, a small hamlet a few kilometres from Campomanes, where we call Sandra to pick us up and take us to the albergue, 1.5 km away. We've walked many kilometres, too many, especially in these conditions. Fortunately, Bendueños is absolutely charming, both the Sanctuary and the albergue.

Converted from an ancient restored stone house, it overlooks an enchanting landscape. Inside there are 8 bunk beds, a wood-fired stove that warms the space, a small but well-equipped kitchen, and three bathrooms with showers. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, with distinctive furnishings. And Sandra's dinner is delicious and abundant. The fridge is stocked with delicacies for guests to enjoy.

We reunite with our friend Gregorio and a woman, born in Madrid but living in the United States for many years, who tells us she's been here for five days now, in love with this place and waiting for the right moment to resume the Camino de San Salvador.

Right in front of the stove, two large sofas offer a place of relaxation and well-being, and Sandra's homemade calendula oil provides some relief to our aching feet and legs. Truly a magical place to spend time and recover your strength for the day ahead.

Go to Stage 4 〉

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