Portuguese Coastal Way – Stage 3 – Travel Blog
Discover Stage 3 of Portugal's most scenic coastal pilgrimage route. Walk seaside cliffs, charming fishing villages, and pristine beaches while immersing yourself in authentic Portuguese culture and Atlantic beauty.
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20km on the third stage of the Portuguese Coastal Way, from Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende, featuring endless ocean and sandy beaches alongside inland routes through agricultural fields.
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#Day3 – Póvoa de Varzim – Esposende 20km
We begin our day at Praça da Republica, the main square of Póvoa de Varzim, where we can admire the small church dedicated to Saint James the Pilgrim. The sky is grey, the temperature chilly and a light drizzle is already beginning. We duck into a café for breakfast and, hungry from the early start, we devour one of their delicious croissants—far closer to an Italian cremona than what we know back home.
From the very beginning, we follow the coastline, traversing both seaside pavements and wooden boardwalks across the sand. The landscape is once again magnificent. We snap dozens of photos—capturing seagulls wheeling over the sea, moments of daily life, people strolling along the shore or fishermen casting their lines into the waves.
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A surprisingly straightforward day on the trail!
Our feet begin to feel the strain once we leave the boardwalks behind and venture inland. A long, seemingly endless cobblestone path guides us for kilometres towards the small town of Esposende, passing through agricultural lands and greenhouses. The fields here are devoted mainly to lettuce and spring onions, produce we watch being loaded onto the back of dozens of small trucks that whizz past us. Farmers on bicycles and motorbikes head towards their plots, ready for another afternoon's labour.
As we push further north, more people begin to recognize us as pilgrims and offer us the much-anticipated and auspicious Bom Caminho, as they say in these parts. It's wonderful to interact with them, to exchange a word and a smile, because beyond the landscapes and the walking itself, this human connection captures the truest and deepest sense of travel.
Tonight we finally cook a meal. What it will be, we don't yet know, but it's the perfect opportunity to share a good glass of Portuguese wine and plan tomorrow's stage. Where will we go? Well, we're pilgrims—we'll only know where to stop once we arrive!
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Deborah Torreggiani
Hi, I'm Deborah Torreggiani, Travel Blogger, Editor and Co-Founder of Apiediperilmondo.com. Our mission is to bring together all the information about walking holidays in one comprehensive portal, sharing our experiences and expertise. I create clear, detailed content to help you find everything you're looking for.
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