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A Fresh Journey on the Camino Primitivo (travel blog)

We've walked many miles, but our experience on the Camino Primitivo remains unforgettable, from the Northern Way all the way through to Santiago de Compostela

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If I had to choose just one word to describe our experience on the Camino Primitivo, it would have to be ENCHANTING.

It's easy to rave about the spectacular cliffs of the Northern Way, easy to fall in love with the endless plains of the French Way.

The Camino Primitivo is genuinely demanding, a relentless series of ups and downs with precious few flat stretches to offer respite, yet it captivates you with utterly pristine natural beauty that feels almost magical.

You walk primarily through forests, pastures, and small villages that subsist on livestock farming and agriculture. Along the way, you witness a wonderfully simple life, shaped by an essential, no-frills way of living.

Ruta de los Hospitales, the most memorable stretch of the Camino Primitivo

The stage that most profoundly marked our Camino Primitivo experience was the legendary Ruta de los Hospitales—a 15-kilometre section completely immersed in mountain wilderness, far removed from any signs of civilization, running almost entirely along a ridge at approximately 1,200 metres elevation.

That day, the weather was far from ideal. Relentless rain and wind made the stage more challenging, though no less beautiful; in fact, enduring these raw conditions is precisely what made it so emotionally powerful and unforgettable.

Along the route, we encountered the ruins of three medieval hospices that once sheltered pilgrims journeying toward Santiago. Imagining that ancient pilgrims traversed this same section under even worse conditions, with nothing but these small stone shelters for refuge, we felt a profound connection to the experience of the "true" pilgrims of old.

In those wilderness stretches, surrounded by absolute emptiness, you feel incredibly small against nature's immensity—facing the raw force of rain and wind that you desperately wish would relent, though it refuses. It only finally let up in the last 5 kilometres.

Despite everything, I'd confidently say it was one of the most beautiful stages of all the pilgrim routes we've ever walked!!!

Galicia from a different perspective: beyond the French Way

Galicia experienced from this vantage point, along these paths, offers another extraordinary dimension to your Camino Primitivo journey. It's a different Galicia compared to what you see on the French Way—less forested and flatter in places, yet consistently at altitude. Countless dawns painted by wind turbines dotting landscapes that became breathtakingly beautiful!

All accompanied by profound silence. The pilgrim lodges always filled with walkers, yet none of them interfered with your solitude along the path. Everyone had their own space to walk, to think, to marvel at the surroundings.

Only in the final stages, where the Camino Primitivo merges with the French Way route, does some of that magic fade—because the crowds, the bustle, and the sheer popularity of the French Way inevitably diminish the peace and enchantment that this path had graciously provided.
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Discover More

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Rita Bellan

Mauro Barbon

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