Bilbao to Santander: First Steps on Spain's Northern Way

We set off from Bilbao on the 5th of August. A torrential downpour prevents us from exploring the city, even though it would deserve a few hours of our time.

Right from the start, the Camino del Norte rewards us with breathtaking scenery. We walk along spectacular coastlines facing an unspoiled ocean, passing through small hillside villages that still live off farming and cattle-raising. We pound a great deal of asphalt that wears down feet and legs, yet the landscapes make every bit of effort worthwhile. Within minutes you can go from inhaling the "fragrance" of grazing cows to breathing in eucalyptus trees, from a crystal-clear sky to a sudden heavy downpour. On this stretch from Bilbao to Santander, you will often find yourself caught in the middle of a cloudburst, or just barely dodge threatening black clouds.

The people of Spain are always very welcoming and helpful; they say that if you ask a Spaniard for directions on the camino, three of them will answer. There are enormous numbers of pilgrims on the Camino del Norte, but still far too few facilities and available beds. The many kilometres that typically separate one place of refuge from the next sometimes forces us to book the albergue in advance, a practice that bothers us greatly and that we would have preferred to avoid. The alternative would be to walk for a few extra hours, but our legs are not up to it yet.

Despite being in tourist areas very popular with Spaniards and foreigners alike, the cost of the albergues aligns with that of other caminos: 5 euros for the municipal albergue and around 10-12 euros for a private one. Food costs also follow Spanish standards, with the bonus that, passing through renowned tourist towns from Bilbao to Santander, you can enjoy the magnificent, if expensive, fish restaurants along the coast. A treat I recommend indulging at least once: the food lives up to the highest expectations, and the seafood dishes, featuring the freshest fish, superbly reflect a deeply rooted fishing culture.

To close, a small anecdote:

Today in Santander, in the middle of a torrential downpour, I ask a local woman where the Camino passes... Rita: Por donde pasa el camino? Aqui no estan flechas!

Woman: El camino? Aqui en Santander no pasa el camino, imposible!