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Second Week on the Via de la Plata

250 km from El Real de la Jara to Cañaveral for the second week on the Via de la Plata, through nearly desert-like landscapes that test the pilgrim's resolve

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From El Real de la Jara to Cañaveral, the Via de la Plata is magnificent. The landscape surrounding me and the views from the hilltops more than reward all the effort. The low humidity and almost complete absence of rain continue to shape a barren and dry landscape, but you gradually notice a slow transformation of the scenery as the kilometres pass.

The number of pilgrims has remained constant since I set out. However, I've noticed a significant increase in cyclists, who, covering considerably greater distances than walkers, pass by, greet you, and rush on—almost like fleeting presences along the Way.

The food is good and prices are consistent with those on other pilgrimage routes. The pilgrim's menu is very varied and changes depending on where you are; it costs around €7–10 and includes a complete, healthy, and nutritious meal suited to a pilgrim's needs (first course, main course, dessert, wine, coffee, and water).

Transport services, such as buses and taxis, are always very efficient and offer various schedules and routes. I unfortunately needed them because of tendinitis, and I found the service excellent.

Signposting along the Via de la Plata

The signposting is proving somewhat problematic. True, there are markers, but at certain points you need to "interpret" the signs and figure out which direction they're sending you. On long straight stretches, there aren't many arrows, and if you're not certain you took the right direction at the previous junction, doubt can creep in. Therefore, you need to pay close attention, and at every fork, check under vegetation since overgrowth can cover existing markers. For these reasons, if you start before dawn, it's advisable to have a powerful torch that illuminates the path ahead so you can spot even hidden signs.

The Via de la Plata in August: a psychological journey

Two weeks into my journey, if I were to reflect briefly, I'd say without hesitation that the Via de la Plata in summer is a psychological pilgrimage. It's not just the intense heat, which reaches 45 degrees in the afternoon, but also the extreme solitude you experience that truly tests you. It's not only about walking alone—though doing so daily is tiring—but finding hostels and towns that are almost empty, with no chance to build lasting connections with anyone.

So you face moments of crisis where you're tempted to abandon and quit the journey. A few days ago, I experienced exactly this: demoralised not only by heat and solitude but also by poor physical condition, suffering from early tendinitis symptoms. Having no one to talk to, confide in, or receive a word of comfort from is hard. Fortunately, I could count on the support and strength of a group of fellow pilgrim friends I met two years ago on the Camino Francés, who encouraged me to carry on, rest when needed, and not give up.

A pleasant anecdote

I'm already into my second week on the Via de la Plata, and yesterday morning, right after my rest day, full of spirit and bursting with energy, I started listening to some music. I chose the Pooh, and began singing at the top of my lungs using my walking stick as a microphone, dancing and gesturing in the middle of the road. At some point I heard someone behind me singing along with me to the notes of "Piccola Ketty." I turned around and saw a guy on a bike, amused by my exuberant performance. It turned out he was Spanish and had worked in Italy for a while, so he knew the song. We said hello and continued, each at our own pace, filling this desert with music.
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GALLERY

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Visit the shop

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Also see

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MATTEO SCALISE

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Hi, my name is Matteo, I'm 32 years old, and I live in Briosco, a small town in Monza and Brianza. I work as a mason, but my dream is to open an albergue on the Camino de Santiago, particularly on the Camino Francés, on the section from Roncevaux to Burgos. I walked the Camino Francés and the Camino de Finisterre in 2014, and now, in 2016, I'm walking the Via de la Plata.

I love walking the Camino because I believe that HERE YOU TRULY LIVE! It makes you feel free to decide and do what you want, to live in peace with yourself and your choices!

Over these two years I've tried to bring the life of the Camino back home with me, and I've partly succeeded, stumbling sometimes, but always getting back on the right path.

As they said in the film The Way: "Life is lived, not chosen."
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