Walking in Ireland: Wicklow, Dingle and Kerry, a guide from someone who walked them

Say "I'm going to walk a trail" and everyone pictures Spain. Then you land in Ireland, walk an hour across moorland and cliffs without meeting a soul, step into a pub where the fire has been lit since noon, and something clicks: the walking is superb even where no cathedral is waiting for you at the end.

Ireland is the European walker's second home. Three routes stand above the rest: the Wicklow Way through the mountains above Dublin, the Dingle Way and the Kerry Way on the Atlantic peninsulas. We have walked all three. Here is what they are really like and which one to choose.

Three trails, two souls

Ireland's walking trails fall into two families. The Wicklow Way is mountain and woodland: it starts on the edge of Dublin and climbs straight away past lakes, waterfalls and moors. Dingle and Kerry are Atlantic: peninsulas in the south-west, cliffs, wild beaches and colourful villages. The first is half an hour from the airport; the other two ask for a few hours more and pay you back with the ocean.

Wicklow Way: Ireland's oldest waymarked trail

The full Wicklow Way is the oldest long-distance walk in the Republic of Ireland: from Marlay Park in south Dublin, you cross the whole of County Wicklow heading south to Clonegall, through unspoilt woodland, lakes, waterfalls and small villages.

If you have fewer days there is the short version with two nights in Dublin: four walking stages as far as Glenmalure, plus the city on arrival and again before you fly home. It is the simplest way to get a taste of Ireland on foot in under a week.

Dingle Way: the Atlantic loop

The Dingle Way is a loop of roughly 179 km in 8 stages from Tralee: cliffs, wild beaches, archaeological sites, the slopes of Mount Brandon and villages like Dingle, one of the liveliest in Ireland. It is the trail for anyone who wants the ocean every day and, in the evening, a pub with live music.

Kerry Way: the Ring of Kerry on foot

The Kerry Way loops around the peninsula everyone knows from a coach window: the Ring of Kerry. On foot it is another thing entirely: you set off from colourful Killarney, pass through Waterville and small villages, with unspoilt nature all around, woodland, lakes, waterfalls and moorland. Longer and more solitary than the Dingle: for those who want the deep Ireland.

Which one to choose

Few days and easy flights: the short Wicklow. A full week of ocean and villages: Dingle. Two weeks of real wilderness: Kerry, or the full Wicklow if you prefer woodland and mountains to the ocean.

And if you have no idea where to start, that is perfectly normal: Beat was looking for a classic trail and, during our consultation, discovered a route he had never considered. "A fantastic trail with a natural setting like no other. We discovered this walk thanks to Deborah and her team." Discovered, not chosen: that is how we work.

When to go

May to September. Rain in Ireland is not a setback, it is part of the landscape: it comes, it passes, and it leaves behind the light that makes these greens impossible to find anywhere else. You set off well equipped and walk on regardless: nobody comes home from Ireland remembering the rain.

How we build them

Hand-picked B&Bs and guesthouses at the end of each stage, luggage transfer, GPS tracks and daily support: the format is the same as our self-guided journeys without groups. You walk with a light daypack, and in the evening you find your suitcase in the room and a pint downstairs.

Tell us the days you have and what you are after: we will tell you which of the three is right for you.

Frequently asked questions

What are the best walking trails in Ireland?

The Wicklow Way through the mountains above Dublin, the Dingle Way and the Kerry Way on the Atlantic peninsulas of the south-west. These are the three we offer, all walked first-hand.

How long do they take?

From the short Wicklow, four stages plus two nights in Dublin, to the two weeks of the Kerry Way. The Dingle Way is a loop of 179 km in 8 stages.

Are they hard?

They are proper treks but without alpine altitude: ups and downs, ground that is sometimes wet, steady daily stages. Anyone who walks regularly will handle them without trouble.

When should I go walking in Ireland?

May to September. You set off ready for rain in any season: it is part of the Irish experience.

Where do you sleep along the Irish trails?

In B&Bs and guesthouses in the villages at the end of each stage. On our journeys we hand-pick them and move your luggage from one to the next.