Camino Primitivo: the stages from Oviedo and the shorter route from Lugo

The Primitivo is the first Camino de Santiago in history: the one King Alfonso II walked from Oviedo in the 9th century. And it has stayed the Camino that experienced pilgrims recommend to each other in a low voice: the wildest, the most demanding, for many the most beautiful.

But "demanding" does not tell the whole truth: the hardness of the Primitivo sits almost entirely in the first half. Understanding how the stages are shaped is the difference between choosing it with your eyes open and abandoning it on day three. We have walked them all, many times. Here is how it really works.

The route at a glance

320 km from Oviedo, capital of Asturias, to Santiago de Compostela, in 13 stages. The first half crosses the Asturian mountains with real elevation; the second drops into the hills of Galicia, where the pace eases. At Lugo the short version also begins: the last 100 km in 5 stages.

The stages from Oviedo: Asturias

You set off from Oviedo cathedral on dirt tracks through farmland. On the third day a 300-metre climb leads to the Salvador monastery, founded in 1024. Then the tone changes: a stage almost all uphill to 780 metres, with 1,700 metres of total elevation gain, hard in the mud if it rains. A short, restorative day in open country follows: the Primitivo alternates, it does not hammer.

On the sixth day comes the legendary stage: the Ruta de los Hospitales, 30 km through wild country along the ridge, with no villages, among the ruins of the ancient pilgrim hospitals. It is the day you choose the Primitivo for. Then the climbs above 1,000 metres and the long descent towards the Salime dam, one of the most photographed views on the Camino.

The border and Galicia

At Puerto el Acebo you cross from Asturias into Galicia: green hills, wind turbines, a constant up and down. On the tenth day you reach Lugo, the only city in the world encircled by intact Roman walls, a UNESCO World Heritage site. From here the Camino softens: flat ground, eucalyptus woods, and the merge with the Camino Francés for the last days to Monte do Gozo and Plaza do Obradoiro.

The route from Lugo: the last 100 km in 5 stages

The Primitivo from Lugo is the answer for anyone with a week who wants the most authentic of the 100-km routes: gentle hills, shady woods, rural villages, and far fewer pilgrims than Sarria. Moderate elevation: here the Primitivo shows its kinder side. It earns the Compostela like every 100-km route.

We compared it with the other short starts in the guide to the last 100 km.

Which version to choose

The full route from Oviedo asks for two weeks and trained legs: it is the Camino for those who want the mountains and the silence, and often for those who come back after walking the Francés. Raffaella, on her second time with us, puts it this way: "they are a GUARANTEE. We will be back for sure."

The route from Lugo asks for a week and ordinary fitness: it is the way to taste the Primitivo without taking on its mountain half. If you are torn between all the routes, start with the guide on which Camino de Santiago to choose.

When to go

From May to October. The Asturian section is real mountain: out of season, rain and mud make the high stages far harder. June and September offer the best balance of weather and quiet.

How we build it for you

We live in Santiago de Compostela, and the Primitivo is the Camino our team most gladly walks again. We build it to measure, organised but without groups: hand-picked lodgings at the end of each stage, luggage transfer even on the mountain sections, support every day.

Tell us about your fitness and the days you have: we will tell you whether to start from Oviedo or from Lugo.

Frequently asked questions

How many stages does the Camino Primitivo have?

The full route from Oviedo is 320 km in 13 stages. The short version from Lugo covers the last 100 km in 5 stages.

How hard is the Primitivo?

The first half, in Asturias, is the most demanding of all the Caminos de Santiago: days of up to 1,700 metres of elevation gain. From Lugo onward the elevation is moderate and the walk is within reach of anyone who walks regularly.

Which is the finest stage?

The Ruta de los Hospitales: 30 km of ridge through wild country, with no villages, among the ruins of the ancient pilgrim hospitals.

Can you walk the Primitivo in a week?

Yes, starting from Lugo: 5 stages over the last 100 km, with the right to the Compostela.

Is the Primitivo a good first Camino?

From Oviedo we recommend it to those who already have multi-day trekking experience. From Lugo it suits a first time too, if you are looking for a quiet walk away from the crowds.