Via degli Dei: the stages from Bologna to Florence, in 5 or 7 days

The Via degli Dei looks like a stroll between two cities of art. It is not. It is 130 km along the Apennine ridge on the ancient Roman Flaminia Militare, with days that climb more than 1,500 metres. It is one of the finest treks in Italy precisely because it is a real trek.

The right question is not "what are the stages": it is how many stages to split it into. The classic version is done in 5, but there is a 7-stage version that changes the journey completely. We have walked both: here is what to expect, day by day.

The route in brief

You set off from Piazza Maggiore in Bologna and arrive at Florence's Duomo: 130 km across the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, on trails, through woods and along stretches of the ancient Roman road from the 2nd century BC. You walk beneath UNESCO World Heritage porticoes, over panoramic ridges and through rural villages, sleeping in hand-picked accommodation at the end of each stage.

The 5 classic stages

Stage 1: from Bologna towards Sasso Marconi

You leave Bologna under the portico of San Luca, the longest in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Then the river Reno, a natural oasis, and the first buttresses of the Apennines. A warm-up stage, but not a flat one.

Stage 2: towards Madonna dei Fornelli

The first day of real mountain: the view from Monte Adone, the badlands, around 1,600 metres of total ascent. This is where you understand why the Via degli Dei asks for training.

Stage 3: the ridge and the Passo della Futa

The toughest stage, with around 2,000 metres of ascent and the paved sections of the Flaminia Militare. At the Passo della Futa the German military cemetery, one of the most moving places on the route.

Stage 4: the descent into the Mugello

The descent towards Tuscany begins, passing through the Passo dell'Osteria Bruciata. The landscape changes: from the ridge woods to the hills of the Mugello.

Stage 5: the arrival in Florence

The final stage: the Castello del Trebbio, the views over Fiesole and the descent towards the Duomo. Arriving in Florence on foot, from above, is an entrance that anyone who arrives by train will never know.

5 or 7 stages: which version to choose

The 5-stage version is the original: long days, ascent packed together, an athletic effort that rewards those who are fit.

The 7-stage version splits the hardest days in two: same places, same route, but shorter days and evenings with energy still in the tank. It is the one we recommend to anyone setting out on their first multi-day trek, or to those who want to enjoy the ridge rather than battle it.

The rule we always give: if you do not trek regularly, choose the 7 stages. Nobody has ever come home regretting a shorter day.

When to go

From late April to October, with May, June and September as the best months: green ridges or autumn woods, temperatures right for the climbing. July and August are walkable by setting off early, with plenty of water in your pack.

How we organise it

We build the Via degli Dei to measure: hand-picked accommodation at the end of each stage, luggage transfer, GPS tracks and a roadbook, support every day. All you carry is a light daypack. Dario set off with us on his own, after the friend he was meant to share the walk with fell ill: "I had a few doubts, but it all went wonderfully."

Tell us how many days you have and how fit you are: we will tell you which version is right for you.

Frequently asked questions

How long is the Via degli Dei?

Around 130 km from Piazza Maggiore in Bologna to Florence's Duomo, across the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines.

How many stages do you need?

The classic version is in 5 stages, with long days and ascent of up to 2,000 metres. The 7-stage version splits the hardest days and is more accessible.

How hard is it?

It is a real trek, not a stroll: it takes physical preparation and being used to walking uphill. With the 7-stage version it becomes manageable for anyone who walks regularly.

Where do you sleep along the Via degli Dei?

In the villages and small towns at the end of each stage. On our journeys we hand-pick the accommodation and move your luggage from one to the next.

Where do you start, Bologna or Florence?

The classic direction is from Bologna to Florence: the way the landscapes unfold and the arrival from above onto the Duomo make this direction the finest.