Walking the Via Francigena in Valle d'Aosta: A Pilgrim's Journey

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I set off on July 29th for this new adventure in a section of the Italian Way that I had never explored before, and I was pleasantly surprised. As we well know, the Via Francigena in Italy starts from the Great St Bernard Pass, descending through well-maintained mountain paths and mule tracks all the way to the regional capital.

Right from this first stretch, you notice a certain cleanliness (for someone like me coming from the plains, it's almost striking): not a piece of litter on the ground, not even a cigarette butt; the waymarks are perfectly placed at every junction (the Via follows trail 103 that descends the entire valley down to Ivrea).

The mountains accompany the pilgrim throughout the entire valley route, stirring awe and wonder when, in the morning, the rising sun sets the peaks ablaze with the most precious shade of pink.

The only minor drawback is that hospitality unfortunately isn't as well organised to receive pilgrims—or rather, it's better set up for tourists who come throughout the year for hiking excursions. Prices are often quite steep, perhaps because in some strategic locations there's only one place offering accommodation, but every person I've met so far has proven helpful and genuinely welcoming.

Throughout the entire Aosta Valley section you encounter carefully preserved Roman remains such as in Aosta, Donnas and Pont Saint Martin, where a bridge dating back approximately 2,000 years still stands intact and functional. You walk practically in close contact with the history that has transformed these remote places into small wonders.

Unfortunately, I didn't encounter many pilgrims, partly perhaps because August isn't the best season for walking, and partly because few Italians start their journey from the Great St Bernard Pass.

I can assure you that the experience I've had these past days leads me to recommend setting out to anyone who feels up to undertaking this walk, starting precisely from here, because as you head south you won't find anything quite like this. Certainly there will be other wonders to discover, but you won't get another chance to walk along mountain slopes still crowned with snow at their peaks.

From a gastronomic and wine perspective too, the Aosta Valley has much to offer, such as Zuppa Valpellinese, Lardo di Arnad, or wines like Arnad-Montjovet Superiore and Donnas (named after the village characterised by its distinctive terraced vineyards that create an incredible atmosphere for walkers).

In short, it's a worthy place to represent the first part of a journey that warms both spirit and body, allowing the pilgrim to enter ever more deeply, day after day, into the pilgrimage spirit they're seeking.

If you have the chance to set off, don't miss it, and may you have a blessed journey!

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