San Salvador Way - Stage 4 - Walking Guide

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We start from Benduñeos along a paved road descending the whole way (1.5km) and upon reaching Herías we take a green path that leads us to Campumanes. A small village with a few bars, nothing particularly special.

A pedestrian path follows the Lena river for a short stretch, until reaching, after a small and steep climb, the pre-Romanesque church of Santa Cristina de Lena, dating back to the 9th century and among the most prestigious architectural examples on the Way of Saint Salvador.

Absolutely stunning and full of charm, with its stone facades and an intimate, elegant style, its doors were open to those wishing to enter. Open only a few hours a week and with an admission fee, it unfortunately doesn't welcome the pilgrim who may arrive at random times and days.

From the church a grassy path leads us onto a pedestrian road that, as the kilometres pass, we discover is heavily frequented by locals, who use it for walking, jogging and dog-walking. We thus arrive at Pola de Lena, where, on the advice of a fellow pilgrim who has already walked it, we take the bus to Ojo.

The 7km separating them are indeed along the edge of a very busy and narrow road, making it dangerous for anyone walking it on foot. Once we get off at Ojo, we immediately find the yellow arrow pointing towards Mieres, just 6.5km away, to be walked entirely on level ground along a path beside the river. Mieres is a truly charming city.

Mieres

Large and well-equipped with all services, Mieres is considered the home of cider, a typical Asturian beverage made from apple juice with low alcohol content. Unfortunately the municipal albergue is located 1.5km from the city centre, in the hamlet of La Peña, so we take the opportunity to grab a bite and wash all our clothes in a coin-operated laundry.

It's been practically four days, since the day we set out, that we haven't been able to dry and properly wash our clothes, which because of the mud, humidity and sweat continue to reek.

We arrive at the albergue early in the afternoon. A sign on the door warns that the hospitalero, or rather the person who opens up and collects the night's payment, won't arrive before five o'clock.

Fortunately our friend Gregorio found a local woman upon his arrival who kindly lent him the keys. So we manage to get in and settle ourselves. Equipped with two large bathrooms with showers, separated for men and women, it has a dormitory with bunk beds and a small kitchen, unfortunately poorly equipped.

A bar right across the way also serves as a shop, where we find what we need to prepare our dinner. A bit of chat and off to bed. The next day we arrive in Oviedo and we can't wait.

Go to Stage 5 〉

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